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Why Your AC Running But Not Cooling Is a Problem You Can Often Fix Fast
If you're dealing with ac not cooling but running what to check first, here's a quick answer before we dive in:
Check these 5 things first (in order):
- Thermostat settings — Make sure it's set to "Cool" mode, not "Fan Only," and the target temperature is lower than the current room temp
- Air filter — A clogged filter is the single most common cause; replace it if it's grey or blocked
- Circuit breaker — Check your electrical panel for a tripped breaker tied to the AC
- Outdoor condenser unit — Clear any leaves, grass, or debris within 2 feet of the unit
- Evaporator coils — Look for ice buildup on the copper lines near the indoor unit; if present, turn the system off and let it thaw
You hear the system kick on. Air is moving through the vents. But your Moscow, ID home still feels warm — and it's only getting hotter outside. It's one of the most frustrating problems a homeowner faces in summer, and it happens more often than you'd think.
The good news? A surprising number of these calls turn out to be simple fixes. According to service data, basic homeowner checks like fixing a thermostat setting or swapping out a dirty filter resolve roughly 12–15% of "not cooling" calls before a technician ever shows up. And since air conditioning accounts for around 12% of household electricity use — costing American homeowners roughly $29 billion a year — a system running hard without cooling your home is burning money fast.
This guide walks you through every check in a clear, logical order — from the easiest no-cost fixes to the issues that need a professional.
Learn more about ac not cooling but running what to check first:
AC Not Cooling But Running What to Check First: The Thermostat and Power Settings
When your air conditioner hums along but fails to lower the indoor temperature, we always advise starting with the brain of your HVAC system: the thermostat. Before you worry about major mechanical failures, you need to ensure the system is actually receiving the correct commands.
Often, a simple setting gets bumped during spring cleaning, or a low battery causes the thermostat to lose its calibration. Let's look at the electrical basics and thermostat configurations you should check right away. For a deeper dive into these initial steps, check out our guide on AC Troubleshooting Before Calling a Pro.
Thermostat Settings: AC Not Cooling But Running What to Check First
The very first step in diagnosing ac not cooling but running what to check first is verifying your thermostat's operating mode and fan settings.
- The "Cool" Mode Check: It sounds incredibly obvious, but make sure the system is actually set to "Cool." It is surprisingly common for a family member to switch the system to "Heat" or "Off" by mistake, or for a smart thermostat to run an automated schedule that doesn't match your current comfort needs.
- The Temperature Differential: Ensure the target temperature is set at least 5°F below the current room temperature. If the set temperature is too close to the room temperature, the system may run its indoor fan without engaging the outdoor cooling components.
- The "On" vs. "Auto" Fan Trap: This is one of the most common culprits. If your thermostat's fan setting is set to ON, the indoor blower fan will run continuously, 24 hours a day, regardless of whether the system is actively cooling. When the cooling cycle ends, the fan keeps blowing room-temperature air through your home. This can make it feel like your AC is running constantly but not cooling, while also reintroducing moisture from the damp evaporator coil back into your living spaces. Always switch the fan setting to AUTO so the fan only runs when the compressor is actively cooling.
If your system continues to run constantly without dropping the temperature, you might be dealing with a deeper calibration issue. Read more about this in our article on Why Won't Your AC Turn Off When It Reaches the Set Temperature.
Power and Safety Switches: AC Not Cooling But Running What to Check First
If your thermostat settings are correct, but the air coming from your vents is warm, you could be dealing with a partial power loss. Your central air conditioning system relies on two separate high-voltage circuits: one for the indoor air handler (blower) and one for the outdoor condenser unit.
If the breaker for your outdoor unit trips, your indoor fan will continue to run and circulate room-temperature air, giving the illusion that the entire system is running but failing to cool.
- Check the Main Electrical Panel: Locate your home's circuit breaker panel. Look for the dedicated breaker labeled "AC" or "Air Conditioner." If it has tripped to the middle position, flip it completely to the "Off" position, then switch it back to "On."
- Inspect the Outdoor Disconnect Box: Located near your outdoor unit, this metal box contains a pull-out switch or a toggle switch. Ensure it is fully engaged and hasn't been switched off.
- The Condensate Float Switch: Your indoor unit features a safety device called a float switch, which is designed to shut down the cooling system if the condensate drain line clogs and water begins to back up. In many configurations, a tripped float switch will shut off the outdoor compressor to prevent water damage while allowing the indoor fan to keep running. If you find standing water in your drain pan, clearing the drain line will reset the switch and restore your cooling.
For more details on how electrical issues can cause erratic system behavior, see our troubleshooting guide on AC Keeps Turning On and Off What Is Wrong.
Airflow Obstructions and Frozen Evaporator Coils
Once you have verified the electrical settings, the next critical area to inspect is airflow. Air conditioning is a heat transfer process. Your system doesn't actually "create" cold air; instead, it removes heat from your indoor air and transfers it outside. If air cannot flow freely through your system, this heat transfer process breaks down entirely.
The Impact of a Dirty Air Filter
A dirty, clogged air filter is the single most common cause of an AC running without cooling. When dust, pet dander, and pollen clog the filter fibers, your system's blower motor has to work twice as hard to pull air through.
According to the U.S. Department of Energy, replacing a dirty, clogged air filter with a clean one can reduce your air conditioner's energy consumption by 5% to 15%.
When airflow is severely restricted, the cold refrigerant circulating through your indoor evaporator coil cannot absorb enough heat from your home's air. As a result, the coil's temperature drops below freezing, causing moisture in the air to freeze directly onto the coil. This ice further blocks airflow, creating a compounding cycle of cooling loss. We recommend checking your filter monthly during the peak summer months in the Palouse region and replacing it every 30 to 90 days. For more common airflow culprits, read Troubleshooting 10 Most Common AC Problems.
Frozen Evaporator Coils and Blocked Vents
If your air filter is clean but your AC is still blowing warm air, you may already have a frozen evaporator coil.
- How to Spot a Frozen Coil: Look for visible ice on the brass fittings or copper refrigerant lines leading into your indoor air handler. You might also notice weak airflow coming from your vents, or water pooling around the base of your indoor unit as the ice slowly melts.
- What to Do: If you suspect your coil is frozen, turn the system off immediately at the thermostat. Running the system with a frozen coil can cause liquid refrigerant to flood back into your outdoor compressor, leading to permanent mechanical failure. Switch your thermostat's fan setting to ON and let the blower run for 2 to 3 hours to help thaw the ice. Do not attempt to scrape or chip the ice off the coils yourself, as you can easily puncture the copper lines.
- Check Vents and Registers: Ensure all supply registers and return air vents throughout your home are open and unobstructed by furniture, heavy drapes, or rugs. Closing vents in unused rooms does not save energy; instead, it disrupts the system's pressure balance, restricts airflow, and can cause the coil to freeze.
If you are located in the LC Valley and suspect your system is icing up, read our localized guide on Why Your AC Unit Is Freezing Up Lewiston to learn more, or check out No Cold Air Is Your AC Broken for general structural issues.
Outdoor Condenser Unit and Refrigerant Issues
If your indoor system is clean and blowing plenty of air, but that air simply isn't cold, the problem likely lies with your outdoor condenser unit. This unit is responsible for releasing the heat absorbed from your home into the outdoor air.
Blocked or Dirty Outdoor Condenser
Your outdoor unit needs to breathe just as much as your indoor unit. Over the spring and summer, the delicate aluminum fins on your condenser coil can easily become clogged with dirt, lawn clippings, cottonwood seeds, and fallen leaves.
- Maintain Clearance: Ensure there is at least two feet of clear space around the entire perimeter of your outdoor unit. Trim back any overgrown shrubs, weeds, or tall grass that could block airflow.
- Clean the Coils Gently: Turn off the power to your AC unit at the outdoor disconnect box. Using a standard garden hose with a gentle spray nozzle (never use a high-pressure washer, which will bend and damage the aluminum fins), rinse the coil from the top down to wash away accumulated dirt and debris.
When the outdoor coil is blocked, the heat trapped in the refrigerant cannot escape, forcing the system to run constantly without cooling your home. This is especially common during hot summer afternoons on the Palouse. Learn more about managing constant run times in our article on AC Running Constantly in Palouse Summer Heat.
Low Refrigerant Levels and Compressor Failures
If you have completed all the basic airflow and power checks and your system still isn't cooling, you may be facing a mechanical or chemical issue that requires professional tools.
- Refrigerant Leaks: Your air conditioner's refrigerant operates in a closed loop. It does not get "used up" or require regular topping off. If your system is low on refrigerant, it means you have a leak. Signs of a refrigerant leak include a gradual loss of cooling capacity, ice buildup on the copper refrigerant lines, or a bubbling/hissing sound near the indoor or outdoor unit.
- Failed Capacitor: The capacitor is a small cylindrical device in your outdoor unit that acts like a temporary battery, providing the electrical boost needed to start and run the compressor and fan motor. If the capacitor fails (often caused by summer heat strain), the outdoor fan or compressor won't start, leaving your indoor system blowing warm air. You might hear a distinct buzzing or humming sound coming from the outdoor unit if this occurs.
- Compressor Failure: The compressor is the heart of your AC system, pumping refrigerant between the indoor and outdoor coils. A partial or complete compressor failure will prevent the cooling cycle from functioning entirely.
Handling refrigerant requires specialized EPA certification, and electrical diagnostics on live capacitors carry significant safety risks. If you suspect these issues, it is time to call in the experts. Read our guide on AC Might Need Repair and How to Identify Them to help narrow down these complex component failures.
Frequently Asked Questions About AC Troubleshooting
We understand that dealing with a warm home can be stressful. Here are direct answers to some of the most common questions homeowners ask us when troubleshooting their air conditioning systems.
Should I turn off my AC if it is running but not cooling?
Yes, you should turn off your system immediately. If your AC is running but failing to lower the indoor temperature, keeping it running will only cause unnecessary wear and tear on major components.
If the issue is a clogged filter or restricted airflow, running the system can cause the evaporator coil to freeze solid, which stresses the compressor. If the system is low on refrigerant, running it continuously can cause the compressor to overheat and burn out, transforming a straightforward leak repair into an expensive compressor or full-system replacement. Turn the system off at the thermostat and run the fan on "Auto" or "Off" until you can diagnose the problem or have a technician inspect it.
Why is my AC blowing warm air but the fan is working?
This symptom usually points to a disconnect between your indoor blower fan and your outdoor cooling components. Your indoor fan runs on a separate electrical circuit from your outdoor compressor and fan. Common causes include:
- The thermostat fan setting is set to ON instead of AUTO.
- The circuit breaker for your outdoor unit has tripped, leaving the outdoor compressor without power while the indoor fan continues to blow.
- A failed run capacitor has prevented the outdoor compressor or fan motor from starting.
- The system is completely out of refrigerant due to a leak.
How do I reset my central air conditioning unit?
If your system has experienced a temporary electrical glitch or a minor safety trip, you can perform a manual system reset by following these steps:
- Turn off the system at your thermostat by switching the mode to "Off."
- Go to your main electrical panel and locate the breaker for your AC. Flip the breaker to the "Off" position.
- Wait at least 5 minutes. This allows any internal charge in the system's capacitors to dissipate and lets the compressor's internal pressures equalize.
- Flip the circuit breaker back to "On."
- Return to your thermostat and set the mode back to "Cool," adjusting the temperature setting to at least 5°F below the current indoor temperature. It may take a few minutes for the outdoor unit to kick back on due to built-in time-delay safety features.
Conclusion
When your air conditioner runs but fails to cool, taking systematic steps to check the thermostat, power supply, air filter, and outdoor unit can save you time, stress, and unnecessary service calls. However, if you have cleared your filters, verified your settings, cleaned your condenser, and still cannot get your home comfortable, it is time to bring in professional help.
At Unlimited Heating & Refrigeration Inc, we have spent more than 20 years keeping families comfortable throughout Moscow, ID, Lewiston, ID, Pullman, WA, and the surrounding Palouse and LC Valley communities. As a family-owned business and a trusted Daikin dealer, we stand behind our work with our Comfort Promise and a 12-year warranty on qualifying systems.
If you are trying to decide whether your struggling system is worth fixing or if it is time for an upgrade, explore our AC Repair vs Replace Decision Guide. If you are facing a sudden cooling emergency in the LC Valley, read our guide on When AC Stops Working in Lewiston.
Don't sweat through another hot afternoon. Schedule professional service with Unlimited Heating & Refrigeration today, and let our experienced team restore your home's comfort quickly and safely.
Why Your AC Running But Not Cooling Is a Problem You Can Often Fix Fast
If you're dealing with ac not cooling but running what to check first, here's a quick answer before we dive in:
Check these 5 things first (in order):
- Thermostat settings — Make sure it's set to "Cool" mode, not "Fan Only," and the target temperature is lower than the current room temp
- Air filter — A clogged filter is the single most common cause; replace it if it's grey or blocked
- Circuit breaker — Check your electrical panel for a tripped breaker tied to the AC
- Outdoor condenser unit — Clear any leaves, grass, or debris within 2 feet of the unit
- Evaporator coils — Look for ice buildup on the copper lines near the indoor unit; if present, turn the system off and let it thaw
You hear the system kick on. Air is moving through the vents. But your Moscow, ID home still feels warm — and it's only getting hotter outside. It's one of the most frustrating problems a homeowner faces in summer, and it happens more often than you'd think.
The good news? A surprising number of these calls turn out to be simple fixes. According to service data, basic homeowner checks like fixing a thermostat setting or swapping out a dirty filter resolve roughly 12–15% of "not cooling" calls before a technician ever shows up. And since air conditioning accounts for around 12% of household electricity use — costing American homeowners roughly $29 billion a year — a system running hard without cooling your home is burning money fast.
This guide walks you through every check in a clear, logical order — from the easiest no-cost fixes to the issues that need a professional.
Learn more about ac not cooling but running what to check first:
AC Not Cooling But Running What to Check First: The Thermostat and Power Settings
When your air conditioner hums along but fails to lower the indoor temperature, we always advise starting with the brain of your HVAC system: the thermostat. Before you worry about major mechanical failures, you need to ensure the system is actually receiving the correct commands.
Often, a simple setting gets bumped during spring cleaning, or a low battery causes the thermostat to lose its calibration. Let's look at the electrical basics and thermostat configurations you should check right away. For a deeper dive into these initial steps, check out our guide on AC Troubleshooting Before Calling a Pro.
Thermostat Settings: AC Not Cooling But Running What to Check First
The very first step in diagnosing ac not cooling but running what to check first is verifying your thermostat's operating mode and fan settings.
- The "Cool" Mode Check: It sounds incredibly obvious, but make sure the system is actually set to "Cool." It is surprisingly common for a family member to switch the system to "Heat" or "Off" by mistake, or for a smart thermostat to run an automated schedule that doesn't match your current comfort needs.
- The Temperature Differential: Ensure the target temperature is set at least 5°F below the current room temperature. If the set temperature is too close to the room temperature, the system may run its indoor fan without engaging the outdoor cooling components.
- The "On" vs. "Auto" Fan Trap: This is one of the most common culprits. If your thermostat's fan setting is set to ON, the indoor blower fan will run continuously, 24 hours a day, regardless of whether the system is actively cooling. When the cooling cycle ends, the fan keeps blowing room-temperature air through your home. This can make it feel like your AC is running constantly but not cooling, while also reintroducing moisture from the damp evaporator coil back into your living spaces. Always switch the fan setting to AUTO so the fan only runs when the compressor is actively cooling.
If your system continues to run constantly without dropping the temperature, you might be dealing with a deeper calibration issue. Read more about this in our article on Why Won't Your AC Turn Off When It Reaches the Set Temperature.
Power and Safety Switches: AC Not Cooling But Running What to Check First
If your thermostat settings are correct, but the air coming from your vents is warm, you could be dealing with a partial power loss. Your central air conditioning system relies on two separate high-voltage circuits: one for the indoor air handler (blower) and one for the outdoor condenser unit.
If the breaker for your outdoor unit trips, your indoor fan will continue to run and circulate room-temperature air, giving the illusion that the entire system is running but failing to cool.
- Check the Main Electrical Panel: Locate your home's circuit breaker panel. Look for the dedicated breaker labeled "AC" or "Air Conditioner." If it has tripped to the middle position, flip it completely to the "Off" position, then switch it back to "On."
- Inspect the Outdoor Disconnect Box: Located near your outdoor unit, this metal box contains a pull-out switch or a toggle switch. Ensure it is fully engaged and hasn't been switched off.
- The Condensate Float Switch: Your indoor unit features a safety device called a float switch, which is designed to shut down the cooling system if the condensate drain line clogs and water begins to back up. In many configurations, a tripped float switch will shut off the outdoor compressor to prevent water damage while allowing the indoor fan to keep running. If you find standing water in your drain pan, clearing the drain line will reset the switch and restore your cooling.
For more details on how electrical issues can cause erratic system behavior, see our troubleshooting guide on AC Keeps Turning On and Off What Is Wrong.
Airflow Obstructions and Frozen Evaporator Coils
Once you have verified the electrical settings, the next critical area to inspect is airflow. Air conditioning is a heat transfer process. Your system doesn't actually "create" cold air; instead, it removes heat from your indoor air and transfers it outside. If air cannot flow freely through your system, this heat transfer process breaks down entirely.
The Impact of a Dirty Air Filter
A dirty, clogged air filter is the single most common cause of an AC running without cooling. When dust, pet dander, and pollen clog the filter fibers, your system's blower motor has to work twice as hard to pull air through.
According to the U.S. Department of Energy, replacing a dirty, clogged air filter with a clean one can reduce your air conditioner's energy consumption by 5% to 15%.
When airflow is severely restricted, the cold refrigerant circulating through your indoor evaporator coil cannot absorb enough heat from your home's air. As a result, the coil's temperature drops below freezing, causing moisture in the air to freeze directly onto the coil. This ice further blocks airflow, creating a compounding cycle of cooling loss. We recommend checking your filter monthly during the peak summer months in the Palouse region and replacing it every 30 to 90 days. For more common airflow culprits, read Troubleshooting 10 Most Common AC Problems.
Frozen Evaporator Coils and Blocked Vents
If your air filter is clean but your AC is still blowing warm air, you may already have a frozen evaporator coil.
- How to Spot a Frozen Coil: Look for visible ice on the brass fittings or copper refrigerant lines leading into your indoor air handler. You might also notice weak airflow coming from your vents, or water pooling around the base of your indoor unit as the ice slowly melts.
- What to Do: If you suspect your coil is frozen, turn the system off immediately at the thermostat. Running the system with a frozen coil can cause liquid refrigerant to flood back into your outdoor compressor, leading to permanent mechanical failure. Switch your thermostat's fan setting to ON and let the blower run for 2 to 3 hours to help thaw the ice. Do not attempt to scrape or chip the ice off the coils yourself, as you can easily puncture the copper lines.
- Check Vents and Registers: Ensure all supply registers and return air vents throughout your home are open and unobstructed by furniture, heavy drapes, or rugs. Closing vents in unused rooms does not save energy; instead, it disrupts the system's pressure balance, restricts airflow, and can cause the coil to freeze.
If you are located in the LC Valley and suspect your system is icing up, read our localized guide on Why Your AC Unit Is Freezing Up Lewiston to learn more, or check out No Cold Air Is Your AC Broken for general structural issues.
Outdoor Condenser Unit and Refrigerant Issues
If your indoor system is clean and blowing plenty of air, but that air simply isn't cold, the problem likely lies with your outdoor condenser unit. This unit is responsible for releasing the heat absorbed from your home into the outdoor air.
Blocked or Dirty Outdoor Condenser
Your outdoor unit needs to breathe just as much as your indoor unit. Over the spring and summer, the delicate aluminum fins on your condenser coil can easily become clogged with dirt, lawn clippings, cottonwood seeds, and fallen leaves.
- Maintain Clearance: Ensure there is at least two feet of clear space around the entire perimeter of your outdoor unit. Trim back any overgrown shrubs, weeds, or tall grass that could block airflow.
- Clean the Coils Gently: Turn off the power to your AC unit at the outdoor disconnect box. Using a standard garden hose with a gentle spray nozzle (never use a high-pressure washer, which will bend and damage the aluminum fins), rinse the coil from the top down to wash away accumulated dirt and debris.
When the outdoor coil is blocked, the heat trapped in the refrigerant cannot escape, forcing the system to run constantly without cooling your home. This is especially common during hot summer afternoons on the Palouse. Learn more about managing constant run times in our article on AC Running Constantly in Palouse Summer Heat.
Low Refrigerant Levels and Compressor Failures
If you have completed all the basic airflow and power checks and your system still isn't cooling, you may be facing a mechanical or chemical issue that requires professional tools.
- Refrigerant Leaks: Your air conditioner's refrigerant operates in a closed loop. It does not get "used up" or require regular topping off. If your system is low on refrigerant, it means you have a leak. Signs of a refrigerant leak include a gradual loss of cooling capacity, ice buildup on the copper refrigerant lines, or a bubbling/hissing sound near the indoor or outdoor unit.
- Failed Capacitor: The capacitor is a small cylindrical device in your outdoor unit that acts like a temporary battery, providing the electrical boost needed to start and run the compressor and fan motor. If the capacitor fails (often caused by summer heat strain), the outdoor fan or compressor won't start, leaving your indoor system blowing warm air. You might hear a distinct buzzing or humming sound coming from the outdoor unit if this occurs.
- Compressor Failure: The compressor is the heart of your AC system, pumping refrigerant between the indoor and outdoor coils. A partial or complete compressor failure will prevent the cooling cycle from functioning entirely.
Handling refrigerant requires specialized EPA certification, and electrical diagnostics on live capacitors carry significant safety risks. If you suspect these issues, it is time to call in the experts. Read our guide on AC Might Need Repair and How to Identify Them to help narrow down these complex component failures.
Frequently Asked Questions About AC Troubleshooting
We understand that dealing with a warm home can be stressful. Here are direct answers to some of the most common questions homeowners ask us when troubleshooting their air conditioning systems.
Should I turn off my AC if it is running but not cooling?
Yes, you should turn off your system immediately. If your AC is running but failing to lower the indoor temperature, keeping it running will only cause unnecessary wear and tear on major components.
If the issue is a clogged filter or restricted airflow, running the system can cause the evaporator coil to freeze solid, which stresses the compressor. If the system is low on refrigerant, running it continuously can cause the compressor to overheat and burn out, transforming a straightforward leak repair into an expensive compressor or full-system replacement. Turn the system off at the thermostat and run the fan on "Auto" or "Off" until you can diagnose the problem or have a technician inspect it.
Why is my AC blowing warm air but the fan is working?
This symptom usually points to a disconnect between your indoor blower fan and your outdoor cooling components. Your indoor fan runs on a separate electrical circuit from your outdoor compressor and fan. Common causes include:
- The thermostat fan setting is set to ON instead of AUTO.
- The circuit breaker for your outdoor unit has tripped, leaving the outdoor compressor without power while the indoor fan continues to blow.
- A failed run capacitor has prevented the outdoor compressor or fan motor from starting.
- The system is completely out of refrigerant due to a leak.
How do I reset my central air conditioning unit?
If your system has experienced a temporary electrical glitch or a minor safety trip, you can perform a manual system reset by following these steps:
- Turn off the system at your thermostat by switching the mode to "Off."
- Go to your main electrical panel and locate the breaker for your AC. Flip the breaker to the "Off" position.
- Wait at least 5 minutes. This allows any internal charge in the system's capacitors to dissipate and lets the compressor's internal pressures equalize.
- Flip the circuit breaker back to "On."
- Return to your thermostat and set the mode back to "Cool," adjusting the temperature setting to at least 5°F below the current indoor temperature. It may take a few minutes for the outdoor unit to kick back on due to built-in time-delay safety features.
Conclusion
When your air conditioner runs but fails to cool, taking systematic steps to check the thermostat, power supply, air filter, and outdoor unit can save you time, stress, and unnecessary service calls. However, if you have cleared your filters, verified your settings, cleaned your condenser, and still cannot get your home comfortable, it is time to bring in professional help.
At Unlimited Heating & Refrigeration Inc, we have spent more than 20 years keeping families comfortable throughout Moscow, ID, Lewiston, ID, Pullman, WA, and the surrounding Palouse and LC Valley communities. As a family-owned business and a trusted Daikin dealer, we stand behind our work with our Comfort Promise and a 12-year warranty on qualifying systems.
If you are trying to decide whether your struggling system is worth fixing or if it is time for an upgrade, explore our AC Repair vs Replace Decision Guide. If you are facing a sudden cooling emergency in the LC Valley, read our guide on When AC Stops Working in Lewiston.
Don't sweat through another hot afternoon. Schedule professional service with Unlimited Heating & Refrigeration today, and let our experienced team restore your home's comfort quickly and safely.
Customer Testimonials
Our customers love our service and support.
Unlimited Heating & Refrigeration, Inc have always gone out of their way to assist us in meeting our needs. Our heating/cooling issues have always been listened to and thoroughly explored with us in a timely manner and most importantly resolved quickly. We appreciate this business and will continue to support them when needed.
Outstanding customer service!! I was blown away by the help, clear communication, and expertise of this company. My parents were experiencing plumbing problems and Amanda not only took my call after hours but had someone to their house early the next morning and the problem solved in an hour. I would highly recommend this company for any plumbing needs and won’t hesitate to use them again! Very happy with the experience.
Fast scheduling for my new Bosch dishwasher installation. The technician was on time, friendly and very experienced. The whole process was under 2 hours. Great work.
Furnace and AC installation: Exceptional responsiveness, quality professional installation (incl some deduct work revision in attic & coordination with electrician). All personnel were congenial and clearly presented info and answered all questions clearly. While a big job, we hardly knew they were here: quiet, efficient and cleaned up very well daily.Great people, Great service! Absolutely would call them for other service! Highly Recommend!!
