HVAC FAQ

HVAC—heating, ventilation, and air conditioning—is a system that provides different types of heating and cooling services to residential and commercial buildings. Its function is to provide thermal comfort, humidity control, and acceptable indoor air quality.

The majority of home and smaller commercial air conditioning systems circulate a compressed gas refrigerant in a closed “split” system to cool and condition inside air. The refrigerant has to be re-cooled and condensed, and outside air is the medium most often used to accomplish this. The term “split” simply means that components are divided into inside and outside portions as opposed to being located together in a “package” unit.
The refrigerants, widely recognized by the trademark “freon” (which is a registered trademark of the DuPont company for refrigerants), help cool and dehumidify the inside air. In a “forced air” system, an internal blower circulates the conditioned air through ducts to the rooms where the cooler air is needed. The air ducts generally run either below the ceiling and inside the rooms (conditioned air) or in the attic (unconditioned air). An outside fan pulls air across the external parts of the system to cool and condense the refrigerant.

ENERGY STAR is a program that was created by the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) to help businesses and individuals make energy-efficient purchases.
This program places the ENERGY STAR label, a small blue and white logo, on items that meet superior energy efficiency standards. This label provides an easy way for consumers to identify quality, high-efficiency products.

Air conditioning is a matured technology, so most of the popular brands work well. Many of them use parts made by the same manufacturers. So, the main considerations are the price, warranty, attractiveness, noise, etc. Some manufacturers offer anywhere from a 10–12 year warranty on all parts, while others offer only 1 year.
Whatever you decide, the most important consideration is the contractor you use. For your protection, make sure you use a licensed contractor for your installation. A licensed contractor using best refrigerant practices and procedures can save you time and money! You may buy the best system in the world, but if it is not properly installed, you will actually be buying nothing but a big headache for years to come.

The benefits of air conditioning are to give a comfortable environment at work or at home throughout the seasons: Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter.
An air conditioning unit can have two functions—heating/cooling and humidity control. With an auto changeover switch on most new units, you set the temperature and the unit will cool or heat as required automatically.

Most systems have a lifetime of 10 to 15 years, with gas furnaces lasting 20–25 years. As your equipment gets older, its efficiency can decrease dramatically. You may notice that it gets noisier and needs repairs more often. If you live near bodies of water or the ocean, your system’s life expectancy may be drastically shortened due to the harsh environment. If your system is over 10 years old, you should have your system checked for maintenance or replacement.

A Heat Pump is an all-in-one heating and air conditioning system that works year-round to keep you comfortable.
During warmer months, a heat pump works as a normal air conditioner. It extracts heat from inside the home and transfers it to the outdoor air. In colder weather, however, the process reverses—the unit collects heat from the outdoor air and transfers it inside your home.
Even when the air outside feels extremely cold, the air still contains some heat. The heat pump pulls the heat from this cold outdoor air and sends it inside to warm your home. When there’s not enough heat in the outside air to meet the demand of the thermostat setting, an electric heater supplements the outdoor air to warm the home. Extremely efficient, this process produces two to three times more heat than the energy it uses.
However, keep in mind: if you do not use much heat and you are thinking about replacing your system, a heat pump is more expensive to purchase up front, and you will only receive a return on the heating portion of your investment when the system is in the heat mode. Additional electrical requirements may also come into play when switching to a straight cool/electric heat system.

An air handler is usually a large metal box containing a blower, heating or cooling elements, filter racks or chambers, sound attenuators, and dampers. Air handlers usually connect to a ductwork ventilation system that distributes the conditioned air through the building and returns it to the AHU.
In some instances, with a ductless mini- or multi-split, the air handler may NOT require a duct system at all—hence the name "ductless."

BTU stands for British Thermal Unit. This unit of measure is used to measure cooling or heating capacity; 1 BTU is the amount of heat required to raise (or lower) the temperature of 1 pound of water 1 degree Fahrenheit. There are 12,000 BTUs in 1 Ton of Cooling.

SEER stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. It measures air conditioning and heat pump cooling efficiency, which is calculated by the cooling output for a typical cooling season divided by the total electric energy input during the same time frame. A higher SEER rating means greater energy efficiency.

When you schedule your regular maintenance visit with a qualified heating technician, they will test your system to make sure it is running at optimal levels. But there are some ways you can determine whether or not your system is working efficiently on your own. Abnormally high heating bills are one of the indicators that your system is running at low efficiency levels, but keep in mind that how well your home is insulated and sealed, and whether your filters are clean, will also play a role in heating costs.
You can also tell by how warm your house stays throughout the winter. If some rooms are colder than others, or if you find that you are turning up the thermostat more often, your heating system may not be running very efficiently. Check your thermostat setting. Is your heating system achieving the desired temperature setting you are requesting on the thermostat? If not, call one of our HVAC professionals to inspect and test your heater.

There are five main questions that need to be considered when deciding to either replace or repair your heating and cooling system:
How old is your system?
If your system is more than ten years old, it may be wiser to invest in new, higher efficiency equipment, which could cut your energy costs by up to 40%.
What is the efficiency level of your current system? What was the efficiency when the system was new?
Unfortunately, replacing parts of your old system will not improve the efficiency. If the energy savings of using a higher efficiency system will cover all or part of the cost of investing in new equipment, you should seriously consider replacement of the old system.
What is the overall condition of your system?
If your system is in solid condition, it could be wiser to simply repair it. But if your system breaks down often, you should consider replacing it. Consider the 50% Rule.
The 50% Rule: If the cost of repair vs. replacement of your system is less than half of its value and you haven’t been suffering the financial burden of frequent service calls to keep your system up and running, repair may be easier on your checkbook. Ask your technician to calculate the efficiency and energy usage of your system to help make a determination.

Putting a new system in a home that has not had central air and heat before will require the installation of ductwork, insulation, refrigerant piping, electrical service, wiring, thermostat, condensate piping, flue piping, flue terminations, chimney liner, slabs, filter, driers, registers, grills, drain pans, and evaporator coil. Beyond equipment, the most important component installed with a new system, however, is the ductwork.
Ductwork is composed of two parts: supply and return. Supply duct is attached to the outflow of the new system, delivering air to each zone in a home. The amount of air reaching each zone is determined by the size of supply ductwork connecting it to your system. Your dealer will help you determine the size of all the supply ductwork in your home.
The second part of the ductwork, the return duct, attaches to the inlet of the new system and draws air out of the spaces to be heated or cooled. Attached to the return duct is the filter. The filter should be placed as near to the furnace or air handler as possible. Ductwork can be either fiberglass or metal and must be properly sized to evenly distribute the proper amount of air to each room.

A ductless mini split system is composed of an indoor air handler/evaporator (fan coil), an outdoor condensing unit, and an approximate 2.5–3″ conduit that accommodates the power (wiring), refrigerant line sets, and a PVC condensate line (drain). As an indoor fan, referred to as the head, and an outdoor compressor unit. Many styles of air handler/evaporator (fan coil) are readily available depending upon your project's needs. Ductless units can be either 1:1 Single mini-split systems or Multi-split systems that can heat/cool multiple rooms.

Ductless split systems can replace a traditional central ducted system or be used in addition to a central ducted system. It works in much the same way as a traditional air conditioner or heat pump, using an outdoor condensing unit, indoor air handler/evaporator (fan coil) with an outdoor condenser, attached to refrigerant line sets and a condensate drain line.
The condenser is installed outside the home or business, typically on a code-approved surface. The conduit is then run from the outdoor unit to the individual room within the structure that you choose—even an attic or garage. Depending upon the system design, wall-mounted interior units, ceiling-mounted units, recessed fan coils, or floor-mounted air handlers are installed and secured in the appropriately desired spaces to control cooling, heating, and humidity as needed and designed.
One or a series of indoor units and refrigeration lines are used to transfer the cooled air from the outdoor condenser to the indoor units of your choice. It works in reverse with heated air in the winter. Units can be placed in any rooms you like, and because each unit is individual, you control the specific temperature in that room instead of needing to set one thermostat for the entire house. As a result, you save money by cooling or heating only the space you are using. One of its greatest advantages is TRUE ZONING!

Installation of a ductless mini split air conditioner is more complicated than a window unit but far less complicated than installing a central air conditioner. But don’t let that fool you. Ductless systems are very sensitive pieces of equipment and are quite unforgiving when mistakes are made. Small mistakes lead to HUGE problems with ductless systems. It is always best to have any AC system installed by licensed, trained professionals. Homeowner installations and using unlicensed individuals most often will void the manufacturer warranty on your new investment. Call us for a certified installation with one of our manufacturer-trained technicians—we will make sure the installation is done correctly. We will evacuate, pressure test, perform a thorough vacuum, and charge your system with refrigerant as needed for your particular installation, followed by startup and commissioning reports on your system.

In general, the sound generated by a ductless air handler (sometimes referred to as a head) is equivalent to whispering in a library (between 21 and 30 decibels). The sound from an outdoor unit is more like normal conversation (60 decibels) but is less than a conventional air conditioning condenser.

Fuses and circuit breakers should not blow or trip. Check the breaker in your electrical service panel to identify which areas in your home/office the tripped breaker supplies service to. Check to see if the breaker feels warm to the touch. (NEVER touch wires or wire connections in your service panel. High voltage is present.) Breakers should not be warm or hot to the touch. If the breaker is warm/hot to the touch, this could indicate a weak breaker. Contact a licensed electrician. Should the breaker feel okay to the touch, you could try to reset the breaker or replace the fuse. If the breaker or fuse trips/blows again, contact a licensed AC contractor like ourselves to diagnose the problem safely and correctly. There could be an issue with a loose electrical wire, the unit could have shorted to ground, or the compressor could have failed. Electricity is nothing to play with—ALWAYS use a licensed electrician or AC contractor as indicated.

First, disconnect any additional devices that may have caused the breaker to overload and trip. Breakers are mechanical devices and must be turned all the way off before turning back on. Remember this is a mechanical device, so this may require several attempts. If this fails to reset the breaker, or the breaker feels “sloppy” when resetting, there may be a more serious problem. Call a licensed electrician.

Yes. This is a common occurrence when large motor/compressor loads start. These devices cause a minor momentary voltage drop, demonstrating itself as blinking in your lights. This has no negative effect on the electrical equipment within your house.

This could mean one of two things:
1. An intermittent chirp is probably an indication of a defective smoke detector.
2. A consistent chirp is probably an indication of a low battery condition, and the smoke detector requires a new battery.

Furnaces are rated by the Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) ratio, which is the percent of heat produced for every dollar of fuel consumed, or how efficiently a furnace converts gas into heating energy. Its AFUE rating is measured as a percentage.
Like the miles-per-gallon rating on your automobile, the higher the AFUE rating, the lower your fuel costs. An AFUE of 90% means that 90% of the energy in the fuel becomes heat for the home, and the other 10% escapes up the chimney and elsewhere. According to the EPA, AFUE doesn’t include the heat losses of the duct system or piping, which can be as much as 35% of the energy for output of the furnace when ducts are located in the attic, garage, or other partially conditioned or unconditioned space. All furnaces manufactured today must meet at least 80% AFUE in the south and 90% AFUE in the North. If your furnace is 10–15 years old, it very well may fall below the current furnace minimum and waste energy—costing you money.
When shopping for high-efficiency furnaces and boilers, look for the ENERGY STAR® label. If you live in a cold climate, it usually makes sense to invest in the highest-efficiency system. In milder climates with lower annual heating costs, the extra investment required to go from 80% to 90% to 95% efficiency may be hard to justify.
This doesn’t mean you should only select a furnace based on its AFUE rating. The efficiency rating is just one factor to consider when looking for a new furnace.

Two-stage heating means the furnace has two levels of heat output: high for cold winter days and low for milder days. Since the low setting is adequate to meet household heating demands 80% of the time, a two-stage unit runs for longer periods and provides more even heat distribution.

There are a few obvious signals that let you know when it’s time to upgrade your heating system. Frequent repairs, recent spikes in utility bills, and inconsistent temperatures in the home are a few warning signs that it’s time for a new heater. But if you’ve had the same heating system for twenty years or more, it would be a good idea to talk to an HVAC contractor about having it inspected to determine if it’s time for a heater replacement. Even if your old heater has worked without problems for years, a professional heating technician is trained to detect any possible operation or safety issues that are a direct indication that the system needs to be replaced. If you are concerned about your heating costs, talk to a heating professional about other options. Call us now to schedule your system’s checkup!

Hiring an HVAC contractor for professional advice is the best approach when you are in the market for a new heating system. Different types of heaters work better in some climates than others. Also, you need to consider the available utility services in your area. Not all areas offer natural gas or propane. Likewise, not all homes have sufficient electrical requirements to change from a heat pump to electric heat. Upon completion of a series of quick questions and a survey of your home or business, our Comfort Consultant can assist you in choosing a system that meets your heating needs. Give us a call and let’s get started!

Furnace technology has advanced significantly in recent years. Modern furnaces are designed to provide more even and efficient heating than past furnaces, which can impact how your system operates, sounds, and what you notice about your system.
To better regulate temperatures and airflow, modern furnaces move more air over the heat exchanger than older furnaces. The air that comes out of your furnace registers may not seem as warm as the air from your old furnace, but overall airflow is improved. Better airflow means higher comfort.
Also, new furnaces are designed to integrate with high-efficiency air conditioners, so furnace blowers are more powerful to accommodate add-on cooling. Since cold air is much heavier than warm air, your system needs an extra boost from the blower to deliver cool air throughout your home. If you have an older home, this performance boost could produce unfamiliar sounds because air duct systems were originally designed for heating only. To minimize sound levels, choose a variable-speed product, which automatically changes speeds to meet the airflow needs of both heating and cooling cycles.

It’s recommended that you schedule a maintenance service visit once a year with a licensed HVAC technician. This will prolong the life of your heating system and keep it running safely and efficiently throughout the cold season. A qualified heating technician will thoroughly clean and inspect all of your heater’s components and make any necessary repairs or adjustments. This ensures your heater is performing at optimal levels (saving on heating costs) and allows the technician to address any major problems or safety concerns.

You may not find the filter in your home or business to be very important, but you should! There are actually three ways air can get filtered: 1) through your AC filter, 2) it will get filtered through the AC coil, and 3) it will get filtered again through YOURS and YOUR FAMILY’S lungs! Furnace manufacturers put inexpensive fiberglass filters into their furnaces to remove airborne particles that might damage the fan and the heating coil. Particle buildup can also decrease furnace efficiency, as the furnace works harder to pull air through the return. More expensive filters can improve air quality by removing pollen, bacteria, and mold spores. Don’t let YOUR lungs be the filter for your air conditioner! Use the maximum efficiency filter designed for your system. This is especially important if you or someone in your family suffers from allergies or respiratory illnesses. If you don’t know which filter to use, ask us—we’ll point you in the right direction!

Check the documentation that came with your furnace for filter size information. Consult our factory-trained technicians regarding the efficiency of the filter needed and whether that efficiency is compatible with your furnace’s unit. Too high an efficiency, in some models, can cause excessive static pressure for the motor and premature motor failure.

Generally, you can buy your filter from any source. Check with a filter vendor or the documentation that came with your furnace to be sure. However, ductless filters are currently O.E.M. (original equipment manufacturer) parts and are not available generically.

Filter efficiency refers to the percentage of airborne particles the filter removes. This is different from the fuel efficiency of your furnace (commonly measured as AFUE). You can choose either a high-efficiency or a low-efficiency filter for your highly fuel-efficient furnace. (Note: failing to change/clean your filter regularly can reduce your furnace’s fuel efficiency.)

Check the documentation that came with your furnace. Recommendations vary based on: the type of filter, number of pets, allergies in the household, etc. If you use disposable fiberglass panel or electrostatic panel filters, change them monthly to every three months. Pleated filters last 3–6 months—always check monthly regardless of filter type. Filters are inexpensive and easy to change. If you don’t change/clean your filter, it can clog with dust, forcing your furnace to work harder. This reduces efficiency and can cause damage.

It is a temperature-sensitive device that controls and regulates temperature in a space for systems like a furnace, air conditioner, or both. When indoor temperature drops below or rises above the thermostat setting, the device initiates or terminates heating or cooling modes. When initiated, your furnace or air conditioner runs to warm or cool the house air to your selected comfort setting.

There are several basic types:
1. Manual
2. Digital Non-Programmable
3. Digital Programmable
4. Remote Access
5. Touchscreen
6. Wireless-WiFi
7. Smart

Most range in price—call and ask us which is best for you. Think thermostats don’t matter? Think again! Thermostats control half of your home’s energy use—more than appliances, computers, stereos, and lighting combined!

Indoor air quality (IAQ) refers to air quality within and around buildings, especially as it relates to occupant health and comfort.
We spend most of our time indoors, so breathing healthy air where we live, work, and play is critical. Indoor air pollution has the same negative effects as environmental pollution.
Ask us how to identify and restore IAQ in your home or office.

Both remove harmful elements from air, but UV Air Purifiers focus on airborne germs, bacteria, and mold, while filtration removes harmful particulates.

An anti-fungus filter is used—this catches allergy-causing mites, smoke particles, and odors, making your environment’s air clean and fresh.

Depending on the style/brand, ozone may or may not be part of the UV light’s function. Consult our factory-trained technicians if concerned.
EPA: Operating UV lamps in HVAC systems to irradiate air-handling surfaces does not increase ozone concentrations.

Replace the bulb once per year or once every two years (model-dependent).

MERV is an acronym for Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value.
MERV Rating is a filter comparison system by the American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air-conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE). It’s a scale allowing consumers to compare filter performance.

It measures a filter’s ability to capture and hold particles (dust mites, pet dander, allergens). Higher MERV = more particles removed. Note: Higher MERV may modestly increase power consumption as your air handler works harder.

Matching the right MERV rating improves air quality and extends furnace/AC life.

Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value, devised by ASHRAE to standardize filter efficiency. Higher MERV = higher efficiency (e.g., MERV 12 removes smaller particles than MERV 8). MERV applies only to efficiency—additives like carbon are separate. For allergies/asthma, choose MERV 8 or higher.

1. Fiberglass: Up to 30 days
2. Pleated: Up to 90 days
3. Washable: Wash every 30 days; lasts up to 5 years
4. Mini-pleated: Vacuum every 60 days; lasts up to 1 year
5. No “standard expectancy”—depends on home characteristics (occupants, pets, smoking, pollen, etc.). Check filters monthly

Life depends on environment and filter type.
Factors include:
1. Number of occupants
2. Pets in the house
3. Smokers in the house
4. Open windows
5. Local pollen/dampness/aridity
Check monthly. If you can’t see light through the filter, change it. At minimum, change every three months. A clean filter prevents dust buildup, costly repairs, and high bills.

1. Locate filter near the blower unit (base of furnace, ceiling/wall return duct).
2. Remove the grill/cover.
3. Dispose of the dirty filter in a bag.
4. Install the new/cleaned filter with the airflow arrow pointing toward the blower.
5. Record the date and adhere to replacement schedule.
Contact the HVAC manufacturer or us if unsure about location/installation.

Your filter collects dust, dirt, and microbes to protect your system and clean your air (protecting YOUR lungs). When full, airflow is restricted, forcing your system to work harder (wasting energy and raising bills). Dirty filters also fail to capture irritants, triggering allergies/asthma. Worst case: extreme clogging can choke airflow or damage the blower motor.

Just like a car needs oil changes and tire checks, your HVAC system requires periodic maintenance by a qualified technician for optimal performance, safety, and efficiency.

The warranty covers parts only. For details, refer to your unit’s warranty sheet. Your dealer may offer a labor warranty or extended warranty.